True story, about niter kibbeh and berbere. Well, probably more about the Universe and our place in it, but anyway. The last time my wife and I were in Kansas City, last year for our anniversary, we went down to the Rivermarket, mostly to go to the Blue Nile Ethiopian restaurant that sits right outside. It had been a magical morning, like anything could be possible. That morning at breakfast, in the hotel (I’m getting to the niter kibbeh and berbere, I promise), we saw a woman who used to work at the school where my wife teaches. We had a very pleasant conversation. She was there for some very big deal baseball game.
Small world. Right? Well, eventually we made our way to the Maker Fair. I was certain that if the Universe was throwing out strange synchronicities like that, that we’d see my friend Randy. Randy is this awesome guy we knew in college, very smart, works in software/technology related fields. I just knew we’d see him there.
We never did. We saw some pretty awesome people in Iron Man costumes jamming to what appeared to be Kool and the Gang. But no Randy.
Well, after the Maker Fair, we finally ended up down at the Rivermarket, and ended up at the Blue Nile. We sat down for lunch, holding hands across the table, just content to look at each other and wait for our food. I was looking at my wife, when I realized that the person sitting right behind her had been in the bookstore where I work just earlier that week. I have a really good memory when it comes to faces.
I told my wife. She didn’t seem to believe me at first. She turned around and asked, “Excuse me, are you from Fayetteville?” You could see it in their faces. Probably in ours too. Minds blown. It was awesome. We had a fun conversation. They were in KC for pretty much the same reason we were. A chance to get away with someone you love, to be close to home, but just far enough away.
They got their food. We got ours. And somehow, when we were eating our magical food, and our senses were being challenged by the spices and the assertive heat, it seemed that much more magical. To be sitting in an Ethiopian restaurant, right next to fellow Fayettevillians, 240 miles from home. The wonder of the unexpected. Companionable silence. Mind thoroughly blown.
After lunch, and wishing our neighbors a good trip, we walked around the Rivermarket, and later ended up in Westport, at the Broadway Cafe (a place of some sentimental significance to us) for mochas. After our coffee, we walked around the corner and down the block to the World Market, to get some snacks and wine for the hotel room. As we were walking up to the checkout line, we saw him.
Randy. Mind even more thoroughly blown.
Well, we had a nice visit, and he showed us pictures of his new kid. We hugged, and wished him well.
Now I’m not promising that every time you make Ethiopian food that the Universe will align in some vast conspiracy to make you feel incredibly small but incredibly special. But you might feel that. Which is cool.
Niter kibbeh
If anything is the foundation for a great many, if not most, Ethiopian dishes, it’s niter kibbeh. This is basically a type of clarified butter, but simmered with spices and aromatics so that it’s positively packed with flavor. When you make niter kibbeh, if you put some on your lips and it kind of tingles, then you’ve done a pretty good job.
The technique:
Spices (I prefer to grind them so that I get full flavor extraction), garlic, red onion and tomato are simmered in butter and, although it’s not traditional, olive oil, for approximately 45 minutes, then drained through a sieve to remove the bits. You shouldn’t have to skim anything off of it, since the sieve will do that job for you. Ideally you want to see a golden, vibrant oily substance as a result.
The ingredients:
- 1 stick butter
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 4 crushed garlic cloves
- 1/4 red onion in large chunks
- 1/2 small red tomato
- 2 bay leaves
- 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek
- 1 teaspoon cumin
- 1 teaspoon coriander
- 1 teaspoon turmeric
- 1 teaspoon cardamom
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1 teaspoon nutmeg
- 1/4 teaspoon clove
- 1/4 teaspoon pepper
- 1 teaspoon paprika
- 1/4 teaspoon allspice
This is used in almost everything, certainly in cooking the various wats, or stews that are served in most Ethiopian meals. Though the olive oil does make it a little heart healthier, if you save this in the fridge it will set up a little bit. You'll need to thaw it out a little if you're going to use it.
Berbere
This is the ubiquitous spice mixture that's used in almost everything, and half the reason why Ethiopian food is so flavorful. If niter kibbeh is the mother of Ethiopian flavor, berbere is the father. These are a people who are not afraid of flavorful food. Thank the Universe.
The technique:
It's rather simple. The spices are placed in a spice grinder and ground to a fine texture. Save them in an airtight container.
The ingredients:
- dried red chiles, about a cup. The more you use, the hotter it will be.
- 1/4 cup paprika
- 1 teaspoon fenugreek
- 2 teaspoons ground ginger
- 2 teaspoons onion powder
- 1 teaspoon cardamom
- 1 teaspoon nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon allspice
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
